TOKYO JAMES AW23 is Switching the Fashion Codes

Tokyo James, the British-Nigerian designer, has once again made a statement with his latest Autumn Winter 2023 collection showcased at Milan Fashion Week. The designer was one of the semifinalists for the prestigious LVMH Prize in 2022, and James' designs have always been known for their intricate details, bold use of colors, and switching around the fashion codes by highlighting the importance of being able to adjust to different environments and situations, while still remaining true to oneself.

The collection dubbed "Code Switch," as an homage to his decade-long career as a designer, is in fact a co-ed collection that featured denim combinations in blue and purple, patchwork shearling, leather jackets, teddy bear coats with mesh-covered openings and radical black looks.

The collection features a mix of traditional silhouettes with a modern aesthetic, and the newest signature zip that extends throughout the collection. It also encoded a range of bold colours, textures from the classic black and white combination to the vivid hues of purples and yellows. The use of denim, an adaptive material that can be worn interchangeably in any season, added versatility to the collection. In addition to Metallic zippers and oversize pocket flaps are highlighted as key elements in this collection, creating unique pieces that are both functional and stylish.

Apart from the breathtaking designs, one of the standout features of Tokyo James' latest fashion show was the bright pink, and eye-catching make-up that the models sported which added an extra dimension to the overall aesthetic of the collection. The casting by the direction of Johnson Gold was a refreshing change from the stoic expressions typically seen on fashion runways and added an element of joy and celebration to the show.

The decision to cast a diversity of models with genuine smiles also reflected the overall vision of fashion as a tool for self-expression and empowerment. By showcasing models with looks that were confident and innovative, the Tokyo James AW23 collection serves as a reminder of the power of clothing which can be used and seen as a means of protection and self-expression in a world where judgments and assumptions are often made based on appearances.

Moreover, Tokyo James' latest collection features multiple layers, mesh details, net see-through shapes, and switch, showcasing his penchant for unconventional and bold design choices. The designer drawed inspiration from his surroundings, including the street, the everyday, and the Duchampian idea of the object trouvee. More loose-cut suits are revealing the names of places in his Nigerian homeland: Badagry, Surulere, Ikoyi, and one suit jacket states in bloody red precious glittery embroidery "African".

It is worth noting that Tokyo James is an active member of the Afro Fashion Association and Afro Fashion Week Milano, both founded by Michelle Francine Ngonmo. These initiatives aim to promote and showcase African fashion and culture on a global stage, with a focus on promoting emerging yet outstanding talent.

Overall, the brand's focus on intersectionality was evident in the collection. They strive to bring together different worlds and celebrate their commonalities. Whether it be the merging of old and new, Africa and Europe, simplicity and complexity, or the good and bad of societies, the brand always finds the similarities between them and celebrates them. Tokyo James AW23 reminished fashion with a cultural edge that is perfect for the bold and confident at heart.

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TOKYO JAMES AW23 FINALE

@tokyojamess

Digital Editor: Danieleverse

BTS Pictures by: Donald Gjoka

Words by: Gloria Maria Cappelletti & Danieleverse

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