GmbH's Autumn 2023 collection breaks away from their usual themes of personal narratives and politics, instead exploring the freedom of pure aesthetics. The collection is focused on the codes and tropes of fashion, embracing the beauty of simple details like knotted bows and the buttoning of blazers. The collection features primarily shades of black with accents of pink, white, and emerald green, and a criss-cross motif inspired by the universal symbol of mining.
The collection includes boxy satin wool suits with contrasting satin stoles, dresses in jersey, sheer mesh, or velvet fitted with utilitarian zippers or fake fur, and an ankle boot with a middle zipper running to the front of the sole. Bows of all sizes decorate tailored coats and off-the-shoulder tops, while sharp and angular platform pumps and ankle boots are part of their first women's collection. The collection also features a new ASICS trainer collaboration, palladium silver earrings, and aerodynamic and utilitarian silver eyewear with mirrored lenses.
The collection is presented without a title and is referred to internally as 'untitled.' GmbH's focus on pure aesthetics creates a sense of freedom and leaves the meaning of the collection to the cut, fabrics, finishings, colors, and body. The formal exercise is presented with visceral live music by GmbH's long-time music collaborators, LABOUR, and City Ballet Corp's dancers' gesturing reminds us of a stripped-back fashion show from the past, reacting to the deafening noise that absorbs and assimilates everything and everyone.