The Six Emerging Contemporary Designers Shaping the Fashion Industry

Fashion Week is approaching, universities are coming to an end, and students have the opportunity to crown their journey with an end-of-year show. In our "Exploring" section, we have identified six emerging designers to keep an eye on. Through experimental techniques, the use of innovative materials, and surprising research, these talents promise to redefine the standards of beauty and innovation.

Let's follow the tracks of these five design pioneers: AoJiErOu, Xijiacheng_, Duran Lantink, Samuel Lewis, MOKOO and Qianhanliu each with a unique journey and distinctive aesthetic language, ready to leave an indelible mark on the fashion world.

So, let's prepare to explore the visions of these designers, whose creativity invites us to dream and rediscover the timeless charm of the art of creation. Let's embark on this journey to discover the five talents selected by Red-Eye, to admire their shows and their unique and contemporary pieces. An adventure that will take us to every corner of the world in search of the excellence of emerging design.

AoJiErOu, a student at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp, uses fashion as a tool to challenge conventions and address complex social issues. His latest collection focuses on a chilling idea: the enduring influence of war on humanity.

Imagine a world where conflict permeates every aspect of life, where constant fear weighs heavily. One video that particularly struck AoJiErOu was that of a bride forced to abandon her wedding due to war.

This experience inspired the artist to create an armored wedding dress, a powerful symbol of the devastation caused by war and a call for self-preservation. The dress represents the evolution of AoJiErOu's work with armor design, a recurring theme in his creations.

AoJiErOu's work demonstrates how fashion can be a means to generate important dialogues and stimulate reflection on urgent issues. Follow him to discover how his art will continue to challenge and inspire.

Canadian designer Xijia Cheng (@xijiacheng_) has made a name for herself with her innovative use of unconventional materials and a focus on sustainability and Nijigen fashion. Her creations have been recently featured on Harper’s Bazaar Vietnam May 2024 Cover Story worn by Coco Rocha, and have been worn by notable celebrities such as RuPaul’s Drag Race queens Yvie Oddly, Daya Betty and Bosco, musical artist Siiickbrain, and singer Pyra.

Xijia’s latest collection was inspired by the first and largest platform for anime/manga-inspired fashion: @animefashion.archives, which she established in 2020. The collection has zero-waste knitwear garments made with upcycled yarns, accessories, footwear, and garments, using up-cycled materials, gallery posters, electronic trash, and broken anime figures from toy factories combined with 3d pattern-making and placement prints.

Duran Lantink is a visionary Dutch designer based in Amsterdam, renowned for his playful and inclusive approach to sustainable fashion. Educated at the prestigious Gerrit Rietveld Academie and the Sandberg Instituut, from which he graduated in 2017, Lantink has rapidly established himself as a pioneering force in the fashion industry. His innovative designs and commitment to sustainability earned him a spot on the shortlist for the 2019 LVMH Prize.

Lantink gained international acclaim with the creation of the iconic "vagina" trousers for Janelle Monáe's "PYNK" music video in 2018, a piece that became a symbol of his bold and avant-garde style. Since then, he has designed pieces for high-profile artists such as Billie Eilish and Solange, further cementing his reputation as a designer who seamlessly blends creativity with cultural relevance.

Samuel Lewis is an innovative fashion designer with a unique cultural background, being Australian-Taiwanese. Based in the fashion capital of Paris, Lewis brings a distinctive blend of influences to his work, merging his diverse heritage with contemporary fashion trends. Known for his creative vision and forward-thinking designs, Lewis continues to make waves in the industry, showcasing his talent on international platforms. His work reflects a commitment to both artistry and cultural representation, solidifying his position as a notable designer in the modern fashion landscape.

MOKOO is a cutting-edge fashion brand headquartered in Milan, celebrated for its fusion of contemporary design and classic elegance. Known for its meticulous craftsmanship and innovative approach, MOKOO consistently delivers high-quality, stylish collections that resonate with a global audience. The brand embodies the sophistication and creativity of Milanese fashion, making a significant mark on the international fashion scene with its distinctive and refined aesthetic.

Qianhanliu studied womenswear at Central Saint Martins for her BA and has recently graduated from IFM with an MA in February. Her latest collection is about healing—a journey of understanding. It embodies a philosophy of peace, sobriety, and equality. A utopian lifestyle. A yearning for wellness. The collection draws parallels between two unreachable, overmarketed nirvanas of stereotypical Eastern oneness: the generous tailoring of one-piece cuts, easy jersey, and chunky knitwear of East Coast preppy style, and the drapery of natural textures from East Asian temple traditions. T-shirts and coats twist like knotted robes, recycled leather is printed and treated to resemble aged wood, and thousands of fallen leaves—each laser-cut from leather offcuts, singed, and stitched by hand—envelop an oversized sweater.

Article by RED-EYE Team

Images Courtesy of AoJiErOu, Xijiacheng_, Duran Lantink, Samuel Lewis, MOKOO and Qianhanliu

RED•EYE WORLD