A Season of Dark Bloom: The Unexpected Romance of Milan Fashion Week AW25

As the curtains close on Milan Fashion Week AW25, the runways leave behind a trail of unforgettable moments, bold statements, and a reimagining of romance in fashion.

Milan Fashion Week just ended with the AW25 women's collections, and it's time to break down what we saw. From iconic moments that peaked on social media—such as Dsquared2’s 30th anniversary show, Diesel’s graffiti-inspired setting and collection by Glenn Martens, and the always unpredictable, innovative AVAVAV presentation—we witnessed a stunning array of creative statements. More in detail, if we look at the collections, we see a repeating theme on many runways: a daring infusion of traditionally soft, romantic details into a season that defied the expected fall/winter darkness. The runways burst with reimagined romanticism where modern edge meets classic allure, transforming autumn’s somber palettes with delicate floral prints and bold bows into a vibrant canvas of color and texture.

Prada, led by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, challenged contemporary notions of feminine beauty by blending rigid, ruffled silhouettes with minimal bow elements and vivid, almost neon floral details that evoked watercolor paintings. A particularly standout element was the design of the skirts, featuring linear yet ruffled waistlines—a testament to exceptional artisanal craftsmanship that harmoniously combined rigidity and movement. These skirts seemed to challenge the body’s natural shape, giving a new dimension to the silhouette. The same bow details were seen on pointed heels, tying the entire vision together.

Antonio Marras embraced a darker romantic narrative, favoring a monochrome palette mostly of blacks and grays while his designs exploded with dramatic 3D floral embellishments and oversized bow details that conjured sensual mystery. Flowers were not merely prints but fully realized sculptural elements, with beaded embellishments and long, trailing stems cascading down garments to the floor. The dresses, though delicate and flowing, carried a sense of drama and melancholy. His makeup choices—featuring bold, red glittery lips reminiscent of a flower blossom—further underscored a story of sensual rebirth and understated elegance.

Marni transformed the catwalk into a living storyboard where every look—from fairy-tale enchantment to comic book boldness—told its own vivid tale through hand-painted tulip impressions, silk-printed blossoms, and intricate 3D floral creations that defied conventional boundaries. Some garments seemed as if they had been painted directly onto the fabric, while others played with proportions, exaggerating floral elements to almost surreal dimensions. The final look, a breathtaking display of layered florals in varying shapes and textures, felt like the ultimate homage to this season’s theme.

With the arrival of new creative director David Koma, Blumarine presented a collection that celebrated the modern, independent woman. Lace-adorned sheer garments, faux fur coats, and sculpted silhouettes showcased a balance of softness and strength. The floral theme appeared in multiple ways—printed designs, metal belts and bras layered under sheer fabrics, and intricate beaded floral dresses. The dominant color palette of black, bold red, and a few striking white looks enhanced the collection’s message of romantic sensuality. Even denim was transformed, with floral appliqués and embellishments elevating everyday fabrics into high fashion statements.

Moschino’s show was not just about fashion; it carried a powerful social message. Deconstructed tailoring revealed raw, unfiltered stitching details, while innovative substitutions—such as replacing conventional jewelry with evocative polaroid images and crafting garments from repurposed materials like black plastic bags cinched with oversized bows—challenged audiences to rethink the ethics of fast fashion and environmental responsibility. The “garbage” looks, as they were referred to, made a striking statement about overconsumption, and one of the final pieces—a simple white T-shirt with the bold message “SOS SAVE OUR SPHERE”—left no room for misinterpretation. Despite these unconventional materials and designs, Moschino seamlessly integrated the season’s romantic motifs, with voluminous floral prints and delicate bow accents enhancing the visual impact.

Words by @elenafabris

Image courtesy Press Office

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