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  • Date
    18 JUNE 2024
    Author
    DANIEL FACE
    Image by
    PRESS OFFICE
    Categories
    Fashion

    University of Westminster BA Fashion 2024: Showcasing the Next Generation of Visionary Designers

    Attending the University of Westminster's BA Fashion course graduate show was an exhilarating experience for us at RED-EYE, providing a firsthand look at the innovative designs and technical prowess of the next generation of fashion leaders. Under the directorship of Rosie Wallin, this program is celebrated for its technical excellence and cultural relevance, producing graduates who are visionary, responsible, and employable. The course, renowned for guiding students in discovering their design philosophy, offers direct industry experiences to prepare them for future careers in fashion. This pioneering program was the first undergraduate course invited to London Fashion Week in 2018 and boasts notable alumni including Ashley Williams, Claire Barrow, Stuart Vevers, Liam Hodges, Markus Lupfer, and Katie Hillier. Recent alumni have secured positions in prestigious fashion houses such as Burberry, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton, and Margiela. The course’s DNA includes a strong emphasis on quality construction, sustainability, diversity, and digital skills, showcased through a range of innovative student collections.

    Discover the full collections, get inspired by their stories, and see how the University of Westminster is nurturing the creative minds that will lead the fashion industry into a new era.

    Isabel Ealand: Subverting the spectacle

    Isabel Ealand draws inspiration from the drama of Victorian circus performers to create her modern womenswear collection. Using dynamic movement, weight, and resistance, she crafts striking silhouettes with fabrics like duchesse satin and jersey. Her collection features innovative pieces like a long ivory jersey dress with Perspex mirror circles and hoops, and a coat with swinging mirror hoops, creating futuristic shapes that captivate and challenge the norm.

    Olivia Stewart: ‘It’s just clothes’

    Scottish designer Olivia Stewart addresses the seriousness of the fashion industry by reconnecting with the childhood joy of dressing up. Her collection, featuring eclectic references such as the UGG boot and Michael Kors’ Voyager tote, subverts recognizable garments and fabrics to evoke nostalgia. Stewart’s playful approach, exemplified by oversized sequins balancing silly and chic, aims to rekindle the sparkle in everyday clothing.

    Lydiah Holder: Honouring Melrose

    Lydiah Holder’s menswear collection is a tribute to her late grandmother and the Windrush generation. Drawing from 50’s and 70’s styles, Holder re-imagines bold graphic prints reminiscent of statement wallpaper and family photos. Using materials like velvet, wool, satin, and faux suede in vibrant colors, her collection celebrates Caribbean culture’s enduring influence on British society.

    Lydia Pipili: Timeline

    Lydia Pipili’s collection is a heartfelt tribute to the women in her family who have endured hardships. Inspired by her grandmother’s resilience, Pipili creates protective silhouettes with structures that carry burdens of adversity. Using family photographs, she designs key pieces like a wedding dress symbolizing hope, blending personal history with innovative fashion.

    Joseph Brimicombe: The End Is Never

    Joseph Brimicombe’s men’s ready-to-wear collection reflects his journey as a designer. Featuring layered looks with denim, drill, and jersey fabrics, his collection incorporates bold knitwear, laser-engraved and smocked surfaces, and expansive scarves and blankets. Brimicombe’s work demonstrates a mastery of complex techniques and a deep understanding of menswear design.

    Markos Tranakas: Linear Principles and Infinite Progressions’

    Markos Tranakas redefines mid-century elegance with his vibrant collection. Inspired by Constructivist, Spatialist, and Optic Art movements, Tranakas uses Laurent Garigue wool to create chic, uncompromising pieces in bold colors like plum, viridian, and chartreuse. His references to artists like Barbara Hepworth and Naum Gabo result in a visually stunning and precise collection.

    Rachael Tyler: Salary men

    Rachael Tyler’s menswear collection is inspired by Pawel Jaszczuk’s photos of disheveled Tokyo salarymen. Tyler challenges traditional business wear by incorporating soft fabrics and unexpected details like skewed neckties and exposed undergarments. Her work contrasts 1980s-inspired formal shapes with playful elements, creating a fresh take on menswear.

    Jessica Parry: Outdoor couture

    Jessica Parry combines sporty style with couture drama in her experimental collection. Using unconventional materials like waterproof nylon and rip-stop, Parry creates bold, bright dresses that celebrate movement. Her work merges couture draping with sportswear functionality, bringing a playful and fresh perspective to fashion.

    Blythe Brunt: The Mechanic’s Day Off

    Blythe Brunt’s womenswear collection is inspired by classic cars of the 60s and 70s. Spending time in a mechanic’s workshop, Brunt draws inspiration from engine parts and vintage car aesthetics. Her collection features playful designs with real car parts, vintage promotional prints, and abstract shapes, creating a unique and inventive fashion narrative.

    Paolo Iacobucci: Ode to Italy

    Paolo Iacobucci’s menswear collection is a cheeky homage to Italian stereotypes. Drawing inspiration from diverse sources like pasta, the Mafia, and cycling jerseys, Iacobucci creates a colorful and eclectic statement. His collection features hand-drawn cartoon prints and playful pieces like the ‘spaghetti’ jacket, celebrating Italian culture with humor and style.

    Reece Sheikh: Armoured Damsel

    Reece Sheikh’s womenswear collection reimagines the concept of the ‘Damsel in Distress’ with empowering designs. Inspired by Romantic era paintings and John Keats’ poem La Belle Dame sans Merci, Sheikh uses soft neutrals and layered textures to create looks that depict gothic distress and resilience. His work showcases impressive hand-craft skills and a deep understanding of historical fashion references.

    Mila Nikcevic: Belgrade Boys

    Mila Nikcevic’s menswear collection is a humorous take on early 90s Yugoslavian style. Influenced by sportwear and societal changes, Nikcevic’s designs mix toughness with campness, featuring pixelated imagery and eclectic references. Her collection juxtaposes tracksuits with formal wear, creating a vibrant and fresh approach to menswear.

    Stavri Grigori: Past and present

    Stavri Grigori’s womenswear collection blends Greek tradition with modern elements. Using materials like goat-hair and Moiré satin, Grigori creates distinctive looks that juxtapose historic carnival references with modern lingerie details. Her inventive designs celebrate Greek heritage while pushing the boundaries of contemporary fashion.

    Soraya Behzadi: Bicycle Thieves

    Soraya Behzadi’s menswear collection is inspired by 1950s Italian cinema and photographs. Her elegant designs feature dynamic draping and subtle layering, paying homage to Italian tailoring with a playful twist. Behzadi’s collection combines luxury with modern sophistication, creating a timeless and refined fashion statement.

    Konthorn Wutthiwongangkhana: Memories of Place. A Biography

    Konthorn Wutthiwongangkhana’s collection is driven by a passion for pattern cutting, tailoring, and leather work. Inspired by Japanese photographer Daido Moriyama and personal memories, Wutthiwongangkhana creates high-contrast pieces with adaptable details. His work showcases a meticulous attention to proportion and finish, reflecting his experience at JW Anderson.

    Milla Hanney: The Lost Toys

    Milla Hanney’s womenswear collection draws inspiration from childhood toys and nostalgia. Using hand-crafted surfaces and abstract prints, Hanney creates dramatic pieces that evoke memories of beloved toys. Her collection combines soft, romantic silhouettes with playful accessories, resulting in a surreal and imaginative fashion narrative.

    Tom Rowe: Beside the Seaside

    Tom Rowe’s light-hearted collection is inspired by 70s family holidays on the Isle of Wight. Drawing from seaside architecture and personal memories, Rowe creates whimsical designs that reflect the British climate and beach experiences. His unique pieces, like the ‘smock’ with backpack details, showcase his innovative approach to fashion.

    Tak Fung: Night Shift

    Tak Fung’s menswear collection pays homage to his Hong Kong roots with inventive designs. Inspired by his father’s job as a bus driver and Hong Kong’s architecture, Fung incorporates elements like bus seat covers and satin inserts. His collection pushes menswear boundaries with imaginative volume and meticulous craftsmanship, reflecting his experience at Givenchy.

    Jamina Ziebart: Feeling and flow

    Jamina Ziebart’s collection celebrates early 20th-century pioneering women in dance and art. Using viscose crepe and inspired by artist Sophie Henriette Gertrud Tauber-Arp, Ziebart’s elegant designs feature beautiful draping and a keen sense of line and form. Her technically challenging pieces appear effortless, showcasing her instinctive and refined approach to fashion.

    Jessica Storey: I Only Mark the Hours That Shine.

    Jessica Storey’s collection is inspired by the life of ‘Little Edie’ and her mansion, Grey Gardens. Exploring decay and re-use, Storey combines modern and hand-craft techniques like 3D printing and laser-cutting. Her distinctive designs create an exciting interplay between past and present, resulting in a collection that is both nostalgic and innovative.

    Theo Ike: Open World Sewing

    Theo Ike’s collection merges fashion with scientific speculation on future climate scenarios. Inspired by geography, natural hazards, and historical events, Ike creates clothes that commemorate life events and tell hidden stories. His open-minded approach to fashion results in unique designs that blend style with deeper meanings.

    Polly Chen: The Lover’s Eye

    Polly Chen’s expressive collection is inspired by 1920s radical change and forbidden love. Using hand-painted, printed, and hand-cut fabrics, Chen creates dramatic looks that conceal the body and reflect hidden feelings. Her eclectic references, including the Lover’s Eye emblem and the NY Chrysler Building, result in a striking and evocative collection.

    Article by @danieleverse

    Image courtesy of @lobby.pr